#Dexcool coolant for chevy impala code#

The issue was a few years back and it seemed that cars that had air in the system or too much water would become acidic. The Dex Cool issue is very misunderstood. When you buy no name it is a crap shoot as some are good and some are not. I agree with Snop stick with Declo, Stant or Robert Shaw. In just a few minutes it was blowing heat like a good one. I poked a new 195 degree stat in and started the big block. It was not only ‘open’ it was actually broken and could not close. I put the flo tester on it and it seemed like it had the coolant going through it at the right rate so just on a chance I pulled the thermostat. I lived in Wisconsin and the state required you to have a hood that covered most of the engine if you were planning to drive the car on the street, so I built one for them out of mostly wood and fiberglass.Ībout a month or so after the cold weather set in they brought the car back complaining that the heater had stopped working. Then built some custom seat brackets so the original bucket seats would fit. It was my job to build a cross flow radiator that would fit where the original tiny cross flow had been that could handle the job, and before it was over I had reinforced the floor and tinned in the big hole to cover the transmission. They had a top fill radiator sticking up about a foot over the D to try to cool the big mill. They had tunneled the back so the super big tires would swing and did a fairly decent job of that but where they had cut the hole for the Muncie transmission was mostly a big hole in the floor. Some fellows brought me a 72 Vega Camback that they had wedged a supercharged 454 with a and a 4 speed into. When I had the shop I would sometimes attempt a custom build and it was a lot of fun though I rarely made the money on a custom that I could on a regular complete stock rebuild. I always like Daniel brand radiator things, not that it really matters but I think they are still made in the USA.

Since most wrecked cars have front end damage I acquired equipment to fix radiators as well. I had a frame straightening machine and a bunch of other stuff for doing all this stuff. I used to have a body shop where my primary interest was buying repairable wreck vehicles and restoring the to useable condition and selling them. But,… DEX tends to clog things up so you might need to have the radiator and heater cooked out and put back in.Īs far as replacing the thermostat goes, I do not particularly like OEM GM parts for such things. I think its is Prestone.įrom what I have learned all you really need to do is drain the DEX out flush the system a good one and put in something different. The cooling system had already been flushed of the DEX coolant and a green coolant is in it now. Is this a non-issue at this point it time? That was around 2002 to 2004 if I remember correctly. While researching this issue, I found out about a class action lawsuit against GM involving major engine repairs that traced back to corrosion issue with Dex-Cool. There is pretty clear evidence that Dex-Cool should not be mixed with green anti-freeze formulations. Oh yeah - I am going to lose coolant when I change the thermostat. Should I spend the extra money and go with the more expensive AC Delco part? The AC Delco t-stat is pictured with a bare metal circumference, with a separate low-res picture of the 'seal' - which, in other literature, is said to be an O-Ring seal that the t-stat body sets against. The pictures for the first three show a flat round seal with a slit which stretches around the circumference of the t-stat body. The third model is described as being supplied with 1 seal - same as the AC Delco. The problem I am having is this: the two cheapies are described as having 4 seals. I went shopping for thermostats and found 4 different kinds, ranging from about $15.00 for a cheap no-name brand to $30.99 for an AC Delco OEM unit with 1 seal.

#Dexcool coolant for chevy impala code#

The night the reading stopped and the trouble code was set was a very cold one. I am going to replace the thermostat - chances are very good that it is actually stuck open. I have an OBDII scanner and I used it to clear the code. If the thermostat is stuck open and the ambient air temp is low enough, the engine will take longer to reach normal temperature, and the timer in the ECM will time out and disable the AC and temp readings, and store a PO0128 trouble code. The analog gauge was bottomed out and the DIC showed -F.Īccording to what I have read, the ECM has a timer that measures how long it takes for the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. My 2007 HHR LS lost coolant temperature readings a couple of nights ago.